A city where history whispers through basalt stones, Kars (Armenian: Gars, Kurdish: Qers), Turkey, stands as a living testament to the triumphs of Armenian culture and the irreparable losses wrought by the genocide of 1915. Iconic landmarks like the Armenian Church of the Twelve Apostles and the Stone or Vardan Bridge embody this layered past, revealing stories of faith, resilience and erasure.
The Church of the Twelve Apostles, built between 932 and 937 AD during the Armenian Bagratid dynasty, is one of Kars’s most significant architectural achievements. With its distinctive structure and intricate reliefs depicting the apostles, the church highlights the cultural and religious heritage that flourished in the region before the Armenian genocide, during which over 1.5 million Armenians were killed and countless cultural sites were destroyed or repurposed.
Following centuries of conquests, the church was converted into a mosque by Seljuk Turks in 1064, reflecting the region’s turbulent history. It later alternated between religious and secular uses under Ottoman and Russian control before becoming a museum in the 20th century. In 1993, it was rededicated as Kümbet Mosque.
The Stone or Vardan Bridge (Turkish: Taşköprü), another of Kars’s enduring landmarks, spans the Kars River near the city’s historic castle. While most sources say that it was built in the 16th century under Ottoman rule, the monumentologist and Turkologist Angela Sargsyan says, “The Kars Stone or Vardan Bridge was built in the 10th century over the Kars River.” She also says, “According to legend, there were demons under the bridge that frightened the people, and the priest said that if the people invoked [the 5th century Armenian military leader] Vardan, the demons would leave.”
The basalt structure of the bridge was integral to trade and transport in the region. Its three-arch design and robust construction have helped it withstand centuries of use and conflict. However, like the Church of the Twelve Apostles, its Armenian historical roots are often overshadowed by later narratives.
Perched above the city, Kars Castle, built in the 12th century by the Saltukid dynasty, adds to the city’s architectural richness. Its strategic position and design highlight the military importance of the region over the centuries. But the castle and surrounding structures tell a broader story of Armenian influence and the subsequent systematic efforts to erase this identity during and after the genocide.
While Kars’s landmarks are celebrated for their architectural significance, their deeper historical context often goes unacknowledged. The Armenian population, once central to the city’s identity, was decimated during the genocide, their homes, lands and cultural sites seized or destroyed. The Church of the Twelve Apostles and the Stone Bridge are among the few surviving reminders of a culture that was systematically uprooted.
Efforts to preserve these landmarks, while commendable, have often sanitised their Armenian heritage, reflecting a broader denial of the impact of the genocide. This erasure highlights the importance of contextualising these sites within the historical realities of loss and resilience.
A visit to Kars today is not just a journey through architectural beauty but a confrontation with the shadows of history. The Church of the Twelve Apostles, the Stone Bridge and Kars Castle stand as enduring symbols of creativity, resilience and the need for remembrance.
