Fresh snowfall and avalanches have once again rendered an isolated district in Turkey’s Kurdish-majority Van (Wan) province inaccessible. Bahçesaray (Miks), showcasing rich cultural heritage and stunning natural scenery, is cut off annually by harsh winter conditions, compounded by inadequate investment in infrastructure.
The district is among several in the eastern regions that grapple with heavy snowfall and avalanches well into the spring. The road between central Van and Bahçesaray was closed on 22 December due to severe weather conditions. The closure affects the route through the mountains from Bahçesaray to the hamlet of Yukarı Narlıca, 40 kilometres east, known for its stunning snowy landscapes.
The harsh winter conditions in Bahçesaray are compounded by the Turkish government’s inadequate investment in regional infrastructure, a failure that the Kurdish opposition views as discrimination against Kurds. This criticism arises amid significant government expenditure on military efforts to maintain the status quo regarding Kurdish issues.
Despite previous claims by the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) and assurances from Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan about substantial road and tunnel improvements, it was revealed after a devastating avalanche in February 2020, which claimed 41 lives, that the ambitious plans for 30-40 kilometres of tunnels had been drastically reduced to a mere two kilometres of snow tunnels.
On 31 March, the pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Equality and Democracy (DEM) Party secured a victory at local polls in Bahçesaray, narrowly defeating the ruling AKP candidate with 21.33% to 22.19% of the votes in a closely contested race that saw three other parties each garner over 15%. This was a significant triumph for DEM, marking the party’s first blanket win of all 14 districts of the province.
Throughout the winter, teams have been actively clearing roads across most of Van’s fourteen districts. The main road from Van to Bahçesaray was briefly reopened in early April but has been shut since. Now, access to the district requires an hour’s detour through the neighbouring province of Bitlis (Bedlis).
Known as ‘Miks’ in Kurdish and ‘Moks’ in Armenian, Bahçesaray is situated between the historical emirates of Hakkari (Colemerg) and Botan and has been a hub of trade, art and culture due to its diverse ethnic and religious population. Notable figures such as the poet Feqiyê Teyran and Islamic scholar Said Nursî studied at the local medrese (educational institution).
‘Mokk’ in Armenian translates to ‘place of magic.’ According to local legends, a magician is buried at a nearby monastery, which was abandoned in the early 19th century. At that time, Miks was at the centre of the Kurdish Emirate of Müküs, which clashed with local Christian coalitions until the Ottoman Empire subdued it in 1846.
Following the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, the town underwent a forced ‘Turkification’, changing its name from Miks/Moks to Bahçesaray.
